Reviews for Lili Co., Racines, Huis Clos and More

In what was a first for Lesley Chesterman after 15 years in the business, a restaurant sent a personal request for a review. Now the verdict is in for Lili Co. co-partners Catherine Draws and David Pellizzari. The news from the Gazette critic is mostly good: "The food is very good, the wines are great and the prices are fair. My only regret is that I didn't introduce myself on the way out. But, I guess, in a way, I get to do that here. So, thanks, guys, and hi. Oh, and by the way, nice restaurant!" [Gazette]

Jean-Philippe Tastet dives in early to provide the first serious review of Old Montreal newcomer Racines. The Devoir critic devotes the first three paragraphs to the restaurant's recent conversion from diner Louigi's and likes the food of chef Simon Mathys, on the whole: "Le chef Mathys recouvre beaucoup, plusieurs de ses assiettes se cachent sous quelque chose et ne se dévoilent qu'une fois attaquées à la fourchette. Un psychiatre trouverait sûrement quelque chose de freudien ici. Moi, j'y vois surtout de beaux plats et peut-être un soupçon de timidité." [Le Devoir]

Huis Clos has been the talk of Villeray for the past few months and now Sarah Musgrave has her say: "Smartly mainstream and done with style, Huis Clos is best approached as a local bar with above-average cooking. A platter (particular the $42 Gourmand for two) and a round of drinks would do for anyone wanting to get a peek — behind closed doors or not — of what's happening in Ville­ray right now." [Gazette]

Ariane Krol files a review of Scarpetta and completely omits wine talk at a place that markets itself as a 'bar à vin' and private import specialist. Food-wise, Krol recommends the Sicilian restaurant with some reservations: "Quand une cuisine se montre qu'elle a du talent et qu'elle est capable de choses remarquables, cela crée des attentes: on se dit que chaque plat sera aussi épatant. On n'y est pas encore tout à fait." [La Presse]

Gemma Horowitz longs for scallion cream cheese but applauds the return of the Montreal bagelwich at Hinnawi Bros Bagel & Café: "If I lived around the Latin Quarter, I'd be there all the time for a cheap lunch. But for the record: I still think the famed Mile End bagel joints should get on the sandwich game, purity be damned." [CultMTL]

Over at Voir, Gildas Meneu hops on over to Grenouille, has cassoulet, and finds few warts: "Un manque de punch, de finition et d'assaisonnements dans certaines réalisations. Des défauts simples à corriger!" [Voir]
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