Reviews for Sel Gras, Café Parvis and More

Lesley Chesterman files a review of Sel Gras; the first important write-up of the restaurant that made a comeback in January after severe fire damage. The Gazette critic wants the spot to pull it off in competitive Mile End but management has to redress some flaws first: "It is still early days at Sel Gras, so my feeling is that there is time for improvement. You can feel everyone's best intentions are at work in this restaurant, and bravo to them for re-emerging from out of the ashes. But the cooking needs more focus and a greater emphasis on technique." [Gazette]

Fur district newcomer Café Parvis, a pizzeria-cum-snack-bar from the Furco folks, gets close to a rave from Sarah Musgrave: "While the dishes are elevated, the food will fall further into place as things settle. I found the vibe friendlier and more accessible than Furco — I'm sure the decibels register like they do there — but on a weeknight, this was a quiet hideaway full of promise." [Gazette]

Behind the paywall, a bold proclamation from Jean-Philippe Tastet, who calls Chinoiseries & Dumplings the best dumpling-maker in the city: "Comme il y a peu de places et que le patron de Chinoiseries et Dumplings aime l’harmonie, il y a également peu de propositions au menu. Trois soupes, cinq dumplings, un dessert. Plus zen que ça, tu es une potiche à l’entrée d’un temple." [Le Devoir]

When the mayor of Longueuil stumps for a restaurant in her vicinity, you pay it a visit, apparently. With that, Marie-Claude Lortie recommends Dur à cuire, but only if you happen to find yourself hungry in the South Shore: "Restaurant qui suit les tendances, autant dans la déco que dans l'assiette, avec plats de charcuteries, huîtres et compagnie. Trop d'ingrédients, trop d'acrobaties. On cherche la simplicité." [La Presse]

Hôtel Le Crystal's Coupole wins modest praise from Andrée Harvey. Cédric Désilets' food (with a nod to ex- L'Eau à la Bouche chef Anne Desjardins) is hit and miss but service is the culprit here: "Dommage que le sommelier ne soit pas d'office après 18h30. Notre serveuse, ne s'y connaissant pas du tout en vin, a quand même accepté de bonne grâce de nous faire goûter les quelques vins au verre d'une carte bien garnie en bouteilles. Ah oui, j'oubliais: le service est lent, trèèèès lent." [Voir]
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