In "Canadian chefs eager to get game on the table – especially the offal bits", The Globe and Mail columnist, food writer and Maison Publique cookbook collaborator Chris Johns explores what menus may look like when the Quebec government's pilot project to introduce wild game (beaver, whitetail deer from Anticosti Island, hare, muskrat and squirrel) hits restaurant tables.
Johns solicits quotes from Derek Dammann (Maison Publique), Dave McMillan (Joe Beef) and Jesse Vergen (Saint John Ale House, New Brunswick) in his article.
Dammann reminds that "all those classic [Antonin Careme-style] patés and terrines were all wild duck livers and wild rabbit livers. They didn't farm ducks back then."
McMillan, for his part, warns that the "whole trick with all of this new stuff is going to be really getting to understand the flavour and not masking it with heavy sauces and vinegar reductions."