Another Montreal Restaurant Critic Haunted by the Unforeseen Fantôme

Le Fantôme first hit it out of the park with Thierry Daraize. A week later, Lesley Chesterman gave the Griffintown restaurant three stars. Two months after those inaugural raves, the critic for Le Devoir has his say today. The word on Le Fantôme is good—very good—from Jean-Philippe Tastet. The clandestine, discreet address charms the critic from the outset, and the front-of-house acumen led by co-owner Kabir Kapoor sets the tone. As for the food, "rien n’est fugace chez ce Fantôme, la cuisine est solide et le reste à l’avenant."

Chef Jason Morris is a star on the rise, hints Tastet. The critic has few cavils with the kitchen's parade of inventive plates, from 'fried chicken' lichen, to Le Fantôme's now-cult-like peanut-butter and foie gras sandwich. "Chaque assiette goûtée ce soir-là passa le test avec brio. Des assiettes montées avec goût et suscitant l’envie de picorer à droite et à gauche dans celles des voisins de table." Morris's ingredient medleys are outside the realm of most home cooks, but evince what diners should ultimately appreciate from a restaurant—boldness, whimsy, and skill, namely. Tastet warns that Le Fantôme is not a brawny, meat-heavy restaurant—no hearty osso bucco here—but the small plates on offer flash glimmers of admirable creativity. Add elegant, polished service to the mix, and Le Fantôme has completely won over yet another Montreal food critic.