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Ladies Love Tartare, Declares Montreal Restaurant Critic

And so lust after Lustucru, apparently.

Inside Lustucru
Inside Lustucru

The critic for Le Journal de Montréal reviews Lustucru this week, a somewhat underappreciated restaurant that, fortuitously, just celebrated its fifth anniversary with a dinner well-attended by the city's food bloggers. The Mile End kitchen's emphasis is on tartares, which Thierry Daraize professes to love. Women must love tartare too, Daraize observes, after a cursory scan of the room. Translated: "It's true that there were many women the evening of my visit. As I said above, when I ask about culinary tastes, I find that many women love tartares, so, this surely explains it."

Okay then. On to the food. Daraize bigs up starters like trout gravlax, and a duck tartare. Served with roasted hazelnuts, corinth grape mustard, and apple remoulade, the duck is "un des meilleurs tartares mangés depuis des années." Then, two duds: a mismatched pear risotto with arugula and brie, and an overcooked seafood chowder. Stick to the cru side of Lustucru, counsels the critic.

Luckily, however, a trio of delicious desserts, professional service, and a reasonably-priced wine list propel the restaurant to three and a half stars on five. "Un des meilleurs restaurants de la métropole pour déguster des tartares et autres plats crus faits avec passion," concludes Daraize. Hear that, ladies?

Bistro Lustucru

5159 ave. du Parc, Montreal, QC H2V 4G3 (514) 439-6701 Visit Website