Look at Candide, a New Little Burgundy Restaurant Inside Heritage Digs

History may well look upon 2015 as an unprecedented, milestone year for new restaurants in Montreal. It's not merely the bumper crop of compelling, chef-driven projects; it's the fact that these restaurants are planting flags in unexpected corners of the city, and carving distinct identities for themselves in the process. The latest to exhibit this kind of potential is Candide. Ensconced in Little Burgundy's St. Joseph's Church, a mid 19th-century Gothic Revival gem recently made over by developer Quo Vadis as Le Salon 1861, the regional and seasonal focused restaurant is the brainchild of John Winter Russell. The chef who earned stripes at Outremont's Van Horne, and, for the last two years, at a series of engaging pop-ups, is doing what you'd expect from someone with such close ties to suppliers like Gaspésie Sauvage—accenting vegetables and foraged edibles, and muting the role of animal proteins (see Candide's opening menu below). The space has put restored aspects of the church to effective use, from pews as tables and countertops, to original windows and doors. Enjoy the photos.