Les Beaux-Frères sur Beaubien Bends Bistro Classics Well

The restaurant critic for Le Journal de Montréal finds himself in buzzy Rosemont this week—not at a trendy new haunt, mind you, but at the decidedly under the radar Les Beaux-Frères sur Beaubien. The “bistrot branché” that took over the former Noche Y Dia last May displays some culinary audacity, writes Thierry Daraize, with riffs on French classics.

With that, the critic starts with, what else, salmon tartare. Not much of a riff, but the citrus-laced dish delivers, save for this critical crouton caveat: “Ce sont les ­croûtons de pain trop durs, toastés trop longtemps à l’avance et qui vous explosent en bouche comme de petits missiles qui vous arrachent la peau du palais et vous brisent les dents.” Ouch. Then, however, a full recovery with a “très grand plat!” of foie gras ravioli and roasted root vegetables. A rabbit “osso buco” with mushrooms is “parfaitement cuit et onctueux”; pork jowl's texture is “impeccable.” It's a typically curt review from Daraize, and one that ends well with perfectly executed profiteroles. All told, Les Beaux-Frères sur Beaubien earns three and a half stars on five, and this final note: “Un bon bistro avec une cuisine qui souhaite revisiter les grands classiques. Bravo!”