New Dumpling Peddler Trilogie Charms Critic

Montreal's dumpling restaurant of the moment—Trilogie—earns a solid review (behind the paywall) in the Gazette today. A 'Good bet' from critic Sarah Musgrave in fact, who, thanks to the kitchen's limited selection, samples almost the entire lunch menu. To start, a Chinese mushroom salad is a favourite "for the uncomplicated way the effect was largely left up to texture, and for the latent heat of chilies lazing in after swallowing to add some interest." A piquant cucumber salad "was definitely eyebrow raising" and Hunan wontons in peanut sauce "a total delight." Then come the dumplings: "The daily special of pork and corn mixed finely textured meat with little pops of sweet from the niblets. Those were quite good; even better were the umami, the name for the pork and Chinese cabbage and shrimp, perfectly browned for a little crustiness and studded with black and white sesame seeds and leaves of cilantro."

Tilapia and cucumber dumplings are less successful but Musgrave likes her jelly/coconut cream dessert and departs the small, sparse restaurant charmed: "There’s a certain simplicity and graciousness in Trilogie’s tiny room that carries the day."