Laloux Has Not Lost a Step After All These Years

Consistency is elusive in the restaurant world but Laloux is as good as ever, declares the critic for Le Journal de Montréal this week. The soigné stalwart has a major talent in the kitchen — chef Jonathan Lapierre-Réhayem does his predecessors proud, writes Thierry Daraize: "Plus que tout, il privilégieles beaux produits, il aime créer des saveurs franches et audacieuses, et il porte un soin particulier à toutes ses réalisations, autant salées que sucrées."

Daraize is taken with the room, the service and the wine list at Laloux and samples six plates over the course of two visits. The critic finds fault with two of them. A ris de veau dish is "un des plats les moins convaincants de la soirée" and cod with sunchokes lacks "un peu de punch." Otherwise, swoon. Sunchoke soupe with smoked sturgeon is "parfaite." Foie gras with cranberry purée is a "délice, presque un dessert!" and Gaspésie char with braised endives is a "magnifique réalisation." Get the lemon tart with rosemary marshmallow for dessert, counsels Daraize. Verdict: a very rare four stars on five.