With much fanfare last month, the dynamic trio of actress Chantal Fontaine, Guy A. Lepage (Tout le monde en parle) and Jean-Pierre Des Rosiers hired Simon Mathys as executive chef of both Accords le bistro and Accords resto bar à vin. While ostensibly a big fat coincidence, the move came weeks after a brutal review of the former by Lesley Chesterman in the Gazette. Now, mere weeks into Mathys's tenure in the Accords kitchens, Jean-Philippe Tastet has swiftly come down with his verdict on the revamped menu at the Quartier des Spectacles bistro: "Midi et soir, le chef Mathys propose de petits plats séduisants."
The entirety of Tastet's write-up in Le Devoir, with few exceptions, is similarly exuberant. The critic is a fan of Mathys's small, soigné plates: "C’est beau, c’est bon et on sort de table épanouis." Mackerel with cauliflower, sage and plum is scarfable and beef cheeks with beets elicits a "tout allait harmonieusement." Special nods to the wine list and sommelière Emmanuelle Tellier for her front-of-house excellence. Bottom line: Mathys, who won raves for his flair at Bar & Boeuf, Racines and Micro Resto La Famille, was a savvy hire.