Thierry Daraize Wowed by Antonio Park's Soulful, Meaty Lavanderia

It's pretty much unanimous now, at least with Montreal's food critics: Antonio Park has another hit on his hands with Lavanderia. Le Journal de Montréal gets all up in the South American parrilla homage — Japanese binchō-tan charcoal, Kobe beef and all. "Antonio Park isn't just feeding you at Lavanderia, he's nourishing your soul," gushes Thierry Daraize.

There are no discernible stars in the online review (Daraize's star system is often spotty) but clearly, the critic is sufficiently blown away. Particularly by the restaurant's flagship parrillada completa: "Bref, le plat arrive à notre table et nous comble toutefois. Magnifiques morceaux de contre-filet grillé à la perfection, nous sommes ravis." Don't skimp on sides at Lavanderia, urges Daraize. The Argentine sweet potatoes, for example, are just plain ridiculous: "À la première bouchée, nous sommes dans un autre monde, on voyage, on s’évade." Bottom line from the Journal critic? Lavanderia's grilled meats are without peer in Montreal.