Rouge Gorge, the new Plateau buvette from partners in the bygone Le Continental bistro, nabs a review today. The maiden write-up of the wine bar comes from a former loyal patron of the Conti, critic Marie-Claude Lortie. The columnist enters the establishment with a twinge of nostalgia for her old haunt but admits that Rouge Gorge is a different kind of operation: "Ce n'est pas un restaurant comme avant, mais bien un bar à vins, et la carte qui leur est consacrée est effectivement fort intéressante, avec beaucoup de crus naturels ou bio bien faits, à prix abordables."
The emphasis on affordable, quality wines by the glass, and the French brasserie design by the ubiquitous Zébulon Perron, are ultimately what captivate Lortie. The small plate formats seem to win the day here; think charcuterie, cheese, and the like. Of the more ambitious dishes on offer, only a swordfish tataki soars. The critic is much less enthused by the desserts prepared by SoupeSoup, which she describes as too heavy. The verdict? Lortie will most definitely return to Rouge Gorge for the wine list and the room.