Lesley Chesterman Takes Montreal's Pizza Pulse at 900 and Brigade

"The tidal wave of new pizzerias has yet to subside in our fair city," writes the critic for the Montreal Gazette at the outset of her review this week. Too true, as today's big restaurant news demonstrates. Lesley Chesterman is firmly in the new wave pizzeria camp: "Pizza is now a casual-chic restaurant option. And it’s about time."

With that, the critic makes her way to two of the latest pizzerias to hit the scene, Pizzeria No 900 and Brigade Pizzeria Napolitaine. The former, in Théâtre Outremont on Bernard, is run by Dominic Bujold of Sushi Shop fame and passionate pizzaiolo Alexandre Brunet (Stromboli, Mangiafoco). Chesterman is a fan: "I have eaten at No 900 several times and got pizza to go often. I liked the pizza before, but as of this last visit, No 900 is my favourite pizza in the city right now." Three stars on four.

Brigade, a custom-make-your-pizza concept from the original founders of Yeh! frozen yogurt, fares less well. The pizza is "[v]ery good," writes Chesterman, with a caveat. "Still, there’s a problem at this concept: when people are choosing their own toppings, they’re basically wrecking the pizza." Keep it simple at Brigade, counsels the critic, "and you’ll be fine." Two stars on four.