Wilfrid sur Laurier Wows Critic Marie-Claude Lortie

Some critics have been known to write a review on the basis of brunch alone. Wilfrid sur Laurier is thankful today that Marie-Claude Lortie chose a different tack. The critic for La Presse was let down by a brunch at the Mile End restaurant this past winter. Nostalgic for Brunoise and Mas Cuisine—the erstwhile, beloved Montreal haunts of chef Michel Ross—Lortie left disappointed. Upon a return visit for dinner, however, Wilfrid sur Laurier delivers: "Et là, bingo! J'ai été franchement ravie. Ravie par la nourriture, par le service, par l'absence de prétention du lieu, par la décoration minimaliste et élégante, sans inutiles baroquismes ou lieux communs."

As a result, Lortie's subsequent rave is more in line with Jean-Philippe Tastet's positive assessment in Le Devoir than Lesley Chesterman's remark that the restaurant "seems hesitant and unfinished." The Gazette critic's review came in January; months on, Wilfrid sur Laurier seems more sure-footed. Lortie cites Ross's nimble technique, precision, and thoughtful use of quality ingredients. Dishes like salmon gravlax and albacore tuna with beets and caviar, soar. Cabbage rolls with shredded lamb? Coup de coeur: "Ceux de M. Ross sont charnus, encore très verts et farcis de viande hyper tendre relevée au vadouvan - mélange d'épices indiennes -, et on sert le tout avec des pommes vertes fraîches et surettes et des tranches de radis croquant."

There are mild quibbles with Wilfrid sur Laurier's desserts but not enough to mar what amounts to "une expérience formidable." Service is very "professionnel, très à propos, très intelligent" and prices are reasonable. Verdict: a return visit is in the bag.