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The Spirit of Hong Hà Nguyen is Alive and Well at Hà, Raves Critic

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Jean-Philippe Tastet lauds late chef's namesake restaurant.

The late Hong Hà Nguyen (fourth from left) and the Hà team
The late Hong Hà Nguyen (fourth from left) and the Hà team

Mere weeks after the death of chef-restaurateur Hong Hà Nguyen, the critic for Le Devoir ventures to the Plateau to dine at the old Souvenirs d’Indochine, reborn as in 2014 thanks to principals Flore-Anne Ducharme, Nic Urli, Francisco Randez, and Ross Louangsignotha.

Jean-Philippe Tastet is a big fan of the makeover and the food. Lao chef Louangsignotha has conserved the spirit of the original restaurant's menu and rejuvenated it at the same time. "Règnent au menu une certaine harmonie et une sérénité reposante qui contrastent avec les débordements d’énergie des aficionados en salle ou sur la terrasse." Among other dishes, Tastet recommends a piquant papaya salad, beef tataki laced with Thai basil, lemongrass spare ribs, and turmeric soft shell crab. "Tout était là, l’exotisme, les embruns, la volupté."

The critic concludes his review with this bit of sentiment. "Monsieur Hà n’est pas décédé subitement le 5 mai dernier, seul son corps exténué nous a quittés. Son âme généreuse est toujours là, grâce à ces jeunes gens."

Restaurant Hà

243 Mont-Royal Ouest, Montreal, Quebec H2T 2T2 514 848 0336 Visit Website

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