Thierry Daraize Gives Cirkus Four Fat Stars

Another Montreal critic raves over Pyrus Bistronomique's replacement on Laurier this week. Cirkus, from chef Julien Joré, is "plus dans le style Cirque du ­Soleil, celui de la créativité, de la poésie et de la beauté," gushes Thierry Daraize in Le Journal de Montréal.

Joré is an artist who offers phenomenal culinary bang for your buck, the critic declares. Notable plates include gnocchi, clams, and beurre blanc, venison with salsify, pear, and bacon (a "réalisation magistrale"), and a chocolate-coffee dessert duo from pastry chef Stéphanie Labelle. The end result is a solid four stars on five and this final compliment: "Une cuisine délicate, élégante et raffinée dans un lieu agréable."