Chef Simon Mathys Delivers the Goods for Accords in Old Montreal

Accords, the Old Montreal restaurant from Tout le monde en parle host Guy A. Lepage, actress Chantal Fontaine, and businessman Jean Des Rosiers, has always been strong in the wine department. The problem, writes Marie-Claude Lortie, was the food. That, mercifully, is no longer the case, reports the critic in La Presse today. Chef Simon Mathys has provided a steady hand in the kitchen and new sommelier Gabriel Gallant, late of Toqué!, has given the front-of-house a boost as well. Toss in the "hyper romantique" terrasse and Accords is one beguiling restaurant.

The best move, exhorts Lortie, is to give yourself over to Mathys. Don't order, in other words, and, if you have the budget for it, let Gallant choose your wine accompaniments. The adventure starts well for the critic, thanks to a plate of asparagus. "D'entrée de jeu, on est bouleversé par la rencontre de la verdure croquante aux tons légèrement métalliques avec le sel de la salicorne et les notes onctueusement torréfiées de la crème. La combinaison marche à merveille." The hits endure with lobster, braised onions, sea peas, and a citrus, chive butter emulsion. Cod with jus de boeuf and broccoli purée provides an elegant take on surf and turf. Finally, a dish of tender, pink lamb served with fried parsley and parsnip purée shines. Desserts, alas, are less successful and the music is too loud but Lortie is sufficiently won over to book her return trip to Accords.