The Formula is Perfect at Wilfrid sur Laurier, Writes Critic

Thierry Daraize is the last major Montreal food critic to pay Wilfrid sur Laurier a visit. The anticipated remake of La Petite Ardoise from chef Michel Ross and manager Zach Suhl, the duo behind the bygone Brunoise, has elicited raves from Jean-Philippe Tastet and Marie-Claude Lortie so far. Lesley Chesterman, however, was less enthusiastic this past January. Late to the party, the critic for Le Journal de Montréal, to Ross's and Suhl's relief, concurs with his cohorts at La Presse and Le Devoir. "Je devine donc avec satisfaction que le chef et son équipe ont enfin trouvé leur niche. Le succès depuis l’ouverture ne se dément pas, la formule est parfaite! Bien heureux pour eux."

Wilfrid sur Laurier is unpretentious and offers a nice atmosphere, writes Daraize. The restaurant is full of happy faces—"agréable, belle cuisine, prix très doux, service et accueil sympa." Refinement and freshness sum up Ross's menu, thanks to standouts like potato croquettes with caramelized onions and marinated radishes, corn pancakes with Matane shrimp, crispy pork belly with poached egg, kimchi, and watercress, and sweetbreads with spelt risotto, and aged cheddar. Of a plate of sea bass, wild mushrooms, crispy polenta, and red wine Daraize writes: "Une autre belle réalisation du chef Ross. La cuisson du poisson est idéale, les champignons sont bons et bien assaisonnés, un bon plat."

On the whole, the only misstep comes with the dessert courses. Daraize is effectively won over by the room, the service, and Ross's precision in the kitchen. "Je vais y retourner c’est sûr!"