Critic Falls for New Wave Mexican Food at Escondite in Downtown Montreal

This week, the critic for Le Journal de Montréal skips over to the new wave taqueria from the principals behind Biiru izakaya. Downtown's Escondite has ambitions to reinvent the genre, writes Thierry Daraize. Prices are affordable, décor is whimsical, and as for the ambiance: "Formidable! Si vous voulez passer un bon moment en petit groupe, c’est la place. Il y a une énergie et surtout une belle ambiance décontracte qui fait plaisir à voir."

Dinner gets off to a fresh start thanks to a jicama, papaya, grapefruit, and bacon-studded salad. Shrimp ceviche "goûte les vacances au soleil!," exclaims the ever-exuberant Daraize. A mushroom quesadilla with aged cheddar is brilliant, even with the superfluous black truffle paste. The stars at Escondite, however, are the restaurant's flagship dishes; a Montreal-meets-Mexico riff on smoked meat, and black cherry cola, chipotle ribs. Of the latter, Daraize announces: "Le clou du repas!"

Desserts are not Escondite's forte but attentive service and good cocktails make up for the shortfall. "Restaurant sympathique. Les côtes levées sont incroyables!" Three stars on five.