Escondite's Guac Rocks Marie-Claude Lortie's World

Escondite, the new wave taqueria and cocktail-driven spot from the same principals behind Biiru izakaya, gets a quick look from the critic for La Presse today and nets a strong endorsement in the process. Marie-Claude Lortie loves Escondite's décor nods to Rivera and Kahlo, and the kitschy luchador/Día de Muertos vibe. Moreover, the restaurant is full and animated; Lortie and her party have to nosh on foot before a table frees up.

Food-wise, the kitchen's take on guacamole “est à tomber par terre.” Score. Lortie then samples two tacos—crispy cod and avocado cream; and roasted cauliflower with black bean purée. “On aime,” writes the critic. A jicama bacon salad, however, “est vraiment très sucrée.” All of a sudden we're on to desserts. Escondite's chili-sugar dusted churros are probably the best in the city, asserts Lortie. Finally, kudos for the restaurant's beverage program, which underscores Mexican beers, mezcal, tequila, and drinks of the boozy and virgin variety. The end result is good news for Escondite: Lortie will most definitely return but, wisely, counsels diners to make a reservation first.