The food critic for Le Journal de Montréal expresses regret from the outset of his review this week that it took him so long to come back to Les Trois Petits Bouchons. A lot of Montreal diners feel the same way—the well-regarded Plateau restaurant just announced that it would close this week.
Blissfully unaware of this sad development, Thierry Daraize skips through his write-up like a kid in a candy store. Daraize calls owners Xavier Burini, Michel Charette, and "femme-chef" Audrey Dufresne "un trio de passion." The critic loves what the kitchen sends out: a mixed charc plate, calamari, grilled octopus, unctuous mushroom risotto, and a chanterelle tart all hit the mark.
Les Trois Petits Bouchons is a bar à vin, of course, but Daraize wastes little ink on wine. The verdict: four stars on five. "Une cuisine de cœur et des vins de passion. C’est de l’amour ça!" Imagine Daraize's disappointment when he learns that his review will be the last for the soon to close Plateau restaurant.
Update: It seems Daraize has heard the news.