New Griffintown Restaurant Le Fantôme Hits it Out of the Park

Le Fantôme, the new restaurant with a small plate, market cuisine focus from Kabir Kapoor and chef Jason Morris, gets an inaugural look from a Montreal food critic this week. Thierry Daraize fails to name either principal, bafflingly, but notes in Le Journal de Montréal that some chefs in the city have been bucking convention of late to great effect. "C’est exactement ce que j’ai constaté au nouveau restaurant Le Fantôme. Rien d’irréel, au contraire! Voici donc un fantôme bien actuel, bien vivant, finalement­­!"

Design-wise the restaurant is discreet, and well-thought-out. "Au Fantôme, on sent l’amour des choses bien faites, la passion se goûte dans l’assiette, la philosophie est là, mais le talent aussi." Daraize delves into the shared-plates model at Le Fantôme and falls for the likes of scallops with dehydrated, then rehydrated, strawberries; a peanut butter and jelly sandwich with foie gras; and fried chicken with boudin purée and corn salad ("C’est bon, même très bon").

There are few stumbles for the newcomer on William street. Desserts are "formidables", service is warm, and the wine list is "jolie." The verdict from Daraize: "Un fantôme bien en vue, à ne pas manquer." Four stars on five.