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Henrietta, the Portuguese Tavern Reboot of Baldwin Barmacie, Nabs Three Stars

A bravo and a caveat.

Bar Henrietta

The new look Baldwin Barmacie gets some love from a Montreal food critic this week as Thierry Daraize tastes chef Éric Dupuis's Portuguese tavern inspired menu. Bar Henrietta may be a bar first, writes the columnist for Le Journal de Montréal, but the 5 à 8 set will not go hungry here. Moreover, the ambiance, post-makeover, is "extraordinaire" — which was pretty much a given from the group that gave Montreal Dominion Square Tavern and Balsam Inn.

Fizzy atmosphere aside, Daraize issues a word of caution about the food. "Il y a, à mon avis, quelques ajustements à faire, mais je sais que le chef est soucieux du bonheur de ses clients. Je ne suis vraiment pas inquiet pour la suite des choses." Those necessary adjustments extend to the likes of a Portuguese grilled cheese sandwich, and clams in olive oil, garlic and coriander. There are however, some nice hits from the kitchen, like a plate of baby octopus with chorizo, and tomato. "Le plat de la soirée!" The roast pork, and eggs, toast, and anchovy butter succeed as well. Daraize suggests that Henrietta beef up its dessert menu, and only enjoys the bar's cocktail desserts in theory, but reserves praise for the wine and cocktail list overall, as well as the service. Verdict: a respectable three stars on five.

Bar Henrietta

115 Avenue Laurier Ouest, Le Plateau-Mont-Royal, QC H2T 2N6 (514) 276-4282 Visit Website

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