Satisfying Chasse-Galerie Still Needs Cheese

Montreal Gazette critic Lesley Chesterman finds French newcomer to the Plateau Chasse-Galerie overflowing with enthusiasm and versatility — it “manages to be both casual and fancy depending on how you want to play it.” She finds the food a little more Nouvelle-France or even French than the Québécois restaurant name suggests, but still very satisfying — “divine” caramelized scallops in a poultry jus for starters, and halibut with squash, chestnuts and a smoky bacon sauce are standouts, alongside desserts. But it doesn’t get to fully-fledged rave territory as with at least one previous critic, as a few elements need reconfiguring — a not-at-all-sweet hay ice-cream adds too much bland chill to a pigeon main, and for a French-leaning menu she laments an abject lack of cheese; plus it’s a touch pricey. But Chesterman has “high hopes” overall. Two and a half stars. [Montreal Gazette]

At Le Journal de Montréal, Thierry Daraize does his semi-regular off-island restaurant review (notably, he’s the only critic in town to venture over a bridge on any sort of routine basis). He is the first critical visit to February opener Cru in Saint-Lambert, a higher-end seafood spot from the same people as Primi Piatti, also on the South Shore. Declaring it an off-island highlight, the seafood stuns, such as a tuna tartare with lotus chips and beer-steamed clams, perfectly done with a touch of butter. But desserts such as a straight-outta-the-fridge strawberry shortcake are where the wheels come off. Three and a half stars. [Le Journal de Montréal]

• Chasse-Galerie is sophisticated nouvelle French [Montreal Gazette]
• Bad Service Continues at Enfants Terribles [EMTL]
• Bien-cuit! [Le Journal de Montréal]