Plateau’s Chasse-Galerie Will Save You On A Cold Night, Says Critic

La Presse critic Marie-Claude Lortie writes that she really didn’t feel like going out one Sunday night, but then French-Québécois restaurant Chasse-Galerie in the Plateau stepped in to save her. After a brief moment of worry based on the restaurant’s fishy smell and noise level, she is quickly impressed. Nothing is minimalist about the menu, Lortie observes, but there’s a perfect sense of equilibrium in the dishes. Standouts include perfectly bleu venison, and a dish of hedgehog and oyster mushrooms with beurre noisette and potato. It’s not quite the rave that Le Devoir had, but Lortie really likes it. [La Presse]

Le Journal de Montréal critic Thierry Daraize is the first to drop by Mile End seafood spot Pier 66, a solid ten months after its opening. It starts well, as Daraize highlights the smooth black-and-white tiled ambiance, and scarfs down smoked fish appetizers, including a salmon pastrami — though he does question the absence of a soup-like dish from the entrées. Generally, it could seem a little odd to criticize a restaurant for not offering a particular item (should a critic not just focus on what’s on the menu?), but he makes a point that the lack of hot apps might not be seasonally ideal. Later on, grilled octopus proves too dry, but a pan-fried cod with Swiss chard and pine nuts is the plat du jour. Three stars. [Le Journal de Montréal]

David Ferguson’s Petite Patrie steaky-American-vibes restaurant Gus hasn’t been reviewed in a while, and Le Devoir’s Jean-Philippe Tastet checks in this week. It’s a warm review — Tastet is appreciative of mouth-melty Black Angus beef with a chipotle sauce, and highlights the “gargantuesques” servings on offer. However, he leaves out any discussion of a horse tartare plate his dining companion eats, out of respect for his love of horses — but notes that it was consumed with enthusiasm. Tastet’s praise is consistent but cool — it’s not a rave, but a solid three stars. [Le Devoir]

Finally, Lesley Chesterman at the Montreal Gazette visits ye olde Italian fine dining restaurant Da Vinci on Bishop, which has been plating ossobuco and other Italian classics for decades now, with tuxedoed waiters and all. Chesterman is a little disappointed to find some finer touches (nice bread, for example) have been scrubbed away since her last visit, and too much of an unchanging menu: “I can’t help but wonder how long a chef can keep making arugula and Parmesan salads and seafood fettuccini before going around the bend.” The apps do OK — albeit with flaws like a thin, overly sweet tomato sauce on the ricotta gnocchi. The mains fare better, with soft marrow-laden ossobuco, but risotto feels a touch pre-prepared. And bless Chesterman for routinely taking price tags into account with her reviews — she deems it satisfying, but that it needs sharper food for the hefty price. Two stars. [Montreal Gazette]