James Rooster Gets a Raw Bar Makeover in the Former Giorgio in Old Montreal

George Despatie, the man behind the embattled Giorgio chain, now down to six restaurants in Montreal's suburbs and Gatineau, hopes that Old Montreal residents and tourists will go for a new concept at the company's once-thronged, flagship outlet. This is not the first time Despatie, who also operates Steak Frites Saint-Paul, has made a bid to reinvent the stone edifice at Saint-Laurent and de la Commune. The concept this go-round is James Rooster, a self-described "wine bar, live and raw food restaurant."

The menu, which will expand over the next month or two, is a strange hodgepodge: oysters, a mortadella sandwich, tuna and salmon nigiri, beef carpaccio, tuna and salmon maki (see below), salmon tartare, a prosciutto sandwich, and charcuterie and cheese plates. "Very interesting stuff made with local ingredients," management affirms, despite evidence to the contrary.

Beverage-wise James Rooster professes to serve "cocktails from terroir alcohol, and local beers and Unibroue products." The drinks menu, however, is a feeble (as in non-existent) tribute to craft beer, with the likes of Pabst Blue Ribbon, Old Milwaukee, and Sapporo-owned brands like Sleeman and Unibroue on offer. In competitive Old Montreal, the new makeover of the old Giorgio could be in for a rough ride.

Status: James Rooster, 3 de la Commune Ouest, (514) 842-3822, now open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Photos courtesy James Rooster