Talk about a hot streak. Make that four spectacular reviews for Hoogan & Beaufort in the span of two and a half months. The Technopôle Angus, Rosemont restaurant from chef Marc-André Jetté, sommelier William Saulnier, and Kitchen Collectif's Simon Drolet Laflamme flirts with perfection in a review by Lesley Chesterman this week. Montreal's food critics are united: Hoogan & Beaufort is probably the best new restaurant in the city.
The Gazette critic deems the post-industrial space “immensely appealing”, and the food “even better than I expected.” Jetté “gives us his signature soigné cuisine using the best local ingredients,” writes Chesterman. Deer tataki with grilled onions is “textbook Jetté” and “gorgeous.” Carrots two ways with bacon is “very good,” but the most memorable starter is octopus with ratte potatoes, olives, and grilled pepper yogurt. “I’d return to Hoogan and Beaufort just for this dish,” the critic declares.
On to homemade pastas. Agnolotti (pictured) with cheese, preserved carrots, pine nuts, and coppa, in yuzu broth, elicits a “Wow!”. A plate of garganelli with duck confit, artichokes, crispy chicken skin, and chèvre noir is wiped clean. So far, so good. The next dish, a main of Gaspor suckling pig, showcases Jetté's talent for building a smart supporting cast around a star central ingredient. Another main dish, grilled cod, is less thrilling, but technically flawless.
Restaurants rarely hit it out of the park with Chesterman when it comes to dessert. But at Hoogan & Beaufort, all three desserts sampled — lemon cream paired with buckwheat crackers, milk chocolate cream with maple meringue shards, and cranberry charlotte with vanilla mousse — are “superb.” (Bravo to pastry chef Nicolas Riendeau.) All told, it's close to a perfect review. “With excellent wine suggestions by Saulnier and impeccable service to match, my criticisms are close to nil,” Chesterman concludes, and awards Hoogan & Beaufort a rare three and a half stars on four.