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Don't believe the hype, naysayers: the Plateau isn't in its commercial death throes; it's simply churning, regenerating, as neighbourhoods do. Amid the borough's red tape and construction woes, there are glimmers of hope. Take, for instance, recent additions like Hào, a bao peddler on Rachel, and Noren, a takoyaki and okonomiyaki shop a few blocks to the west. Now the original Sushi Momo at 8 Duluth Est — which recently moved to the bygone Les Trois Petits Bouchons wine bar on Saint-Denis — has been made over as Local Jerk, across from brewpub Réservoir.
The jerk rotisserie and curry house (see menus below) opened this week; a boon for lovers of West Indian soul food to be sure. The restaurant's principals include partners behind the recently opened Pompette, a "sliders et spiriteux" joint around the corner on the Main, chef Chris Heppner, late of Communion, DNA, Lucille's Oyster Dive, and Garde Manger, and Maysr, the resident d.j. at Bar Blizzarts. While Local Jerk is a grab-and-go type of establishment, which is perfect for the neighbourhood, there are a couple of counters with four barstools each, and a picnic table for dining in. Quirky fact: the side of the restaurant's counter is fitted with a tiny door, a nod to this whimsical Instagram account that features Maysr standing next to small doors. Bottom line: rotisserie jerk (chicken, pork, and vegetable), hot chicken jerk, bifana jerk, assorted rotis, doubles, tropical smoothies, and more, are all here to spice up Duluth's culinary scene. Rejoice.
Status: Local Jerk, 8 Duluth Est. Tentative hours: Tuesday to Friday, noon to 6 p.m.; weekends 3 p.m. to whenever.
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