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Three Critics Simultaneously Shower Tiradito’s Peruvian-Japanese Eats With Stars

A stressful week for Tiradito’s staff

Inside Marcel Larrea’s Nikkei restaurant Tiradito
Randall Brodeur

Ex-Mezcla chef Marcel Larrea’s Peruvian-Japanese (or Nikkei) fusion spot Tiradito opened back in October, and the city’s critics appear to be in hivemind mode this week, with three out of four writing it up this week — all positive, which has got to be a headache for whoever is answering the phones for reservations there.

Le Journal de Montréal’s critic Thierry Daraize is first out of the gate with heavy praise for both Tiradito’s concept and execution, calling it subtle, beautifully presented and reasonably priced. He also gives a nod to the server-free set-up, where chefs serve customers directly from behind the bar. Daraize approves of various seafood plates from ceviche to tiradito (along the lines of sashimi), but has particular approval for duck dumplings with amarillo pepper and white butter emulsion, and sweet chili-beef stuffed potatos, or papas rellenas. The dulce de leche desserts are his only let-down, but it’s still four stars. [Le Journal de Montréal]

Your First Look Inside Smooth Peruvian-Japanese Fusion Randall Brodeur

At the Gazette, Lesley Chesterman writes up Tiradito with a similar level of enthusiasm (she has also had a lot of love for chef Marcel Larrea in the past). Chesterman dubs it trendy on account of its small plates and Asian influences, clarifying that it’s the good kind of trendy: “what impressed most is how it manages to coast the wave of such trends instead of the usual trend-overkill wipeout.” She’s positive about the ceviches but crosses into rave territory for an albacore tuna tiradito (Nikkei-style sashimi), with miso, tamarind, beer, amarillo peppers and corn: “a luscious mix of flavours and textures.” A barbecue duck sandwich and octopus anticucho (grilled skewer) also get big stamps of approval. As for the duck dumplings Daraize loved? They’re “doused” in an excessively buttery sauce, and a Chinese broccoli dish is “watery”, but it’s still three stars. Like Daraize, Chesterman is so-so on Tiradito’s dessert cocktail.

Randall Brodeur/Eater Montreal

Also at Tiradito was La Presse critic Marie-Claude Lortie, who makes it three-for-three. Maybe Lortie is just more of a young, hip, cocktail drinker, as she impresses the quality of Tiradito’s cocktails much more, noting that her American food journalist dining partner, who was wowed by the chilcano (pisco, ginger, lemon, passionfruit, citronella). Lortie is also particularly enthused by the citrussy leche de tigre ceviche, and agrees with Daraize on the topic of duck dumplings. Unlike the others, she has kind words for the dessert cocktail with pecans, coffee, and dulce de leche. But the tiradito that Chesterman loved seems only OK, and needed more acidity and less hunky bits of corn. But overall, it’s a win. [La Presse]

Lastly, you’ll have to wait for the week where all four reviewers show up at the same restaurant, because Jean-Philippe Tastet is off. But his Quebec City colleague Catherine Ferland dines on sushi at Metropolitain Eddie Sushi Bar. It’s a tiny bit cold in the dining room, she writes, but the food is on-point, between a bento box with salmon teriyaki and tofu tempura, and the “love boat” plate of nigiri, sushi, maki, and a hunk of flambéed bluefin tuna. Three and a half stars. [Le Devoir]


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