Bistro Rosie Scoops Up (Almost) All of One Critic’s Stars

Le Devoir critic Jean-Philippe Tastet comes out with one of his most positive reviews of the year, at Bélanger Street newcomer Bistro Rosie (known partly for its no-tipping policy). From thoughtful service to food “cooked with both heart and head” from chef Jérémy Daniel-Six, Rosie checks pretty much every box for Tastet. The small room means a limited menu, he notes, but every dish succeeds: a mussel bouillon cooked in a butter emulsion with shrimp and clams is pretty much perfect (though the accompanying Brussels sprouts could be a fraction softer), and plum vinaigrette-marinated turbot with radish and eggplant is “stunning”. Meanwhile, a pot-de-feu style beef dish is so good Tastet just quotes five lines of the chef’s description to provoke salivation. The wine list doesn’t get much attention, but earns a thumbs up; four and a half stars. [Le Devoir]

Perles et Paddock

At La Presse, Marie-Claude visits hip Griffintown newcomer Perles et Paddock this week, and while the verdict is positive, she’s more hesitant than Lesley Chesterman was just a couple of weeks ago. The issue for Lortie is that Perles et Paddock can’t seem to decide if it wants to be a creative haute cuisine restaurant, or something more casual but still soigné. She concludes that the identity crisis will likely work itself out with time, meanwhile, the food is great. Gaspésie halibut is sweet and delicious, despite a minor overcooking, while a rosé duck dish with chard, beans, pea shoots, and berry jus hits the sweet-but-acidic spot. A grilled squash dish is the only flop — Lortie is told it’s a hot dish, but it comes cold, and despite cheese, hazelnuts, and coppa that could have made it work, Lortie writes that it’s tough to get past the “grilled the day before” feeling: “never optimal”. But desserts like a riff on an apple theme with compote, ice cream, crumble, and hot caramel all rolled in, make up for the squash — Lortie would return. [La Presse]

Rosélys

Finally, Le Journal de Montréal critic Thierry Daraize is at the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth’s shiny new resto, Rosélys. The design (check those zig-zagging floors) is a highlight, and Daraize makes the astute observation that as a hotel restaurant (or at least, one that isn’t leaning on star power like Maison Boulud), with perhaps a broader scope than might be ideal for the average restaurant. Anyway, Daraize approves (to the tune of nine exclamation points): poached cod with an artichoke emulsion is “perfect”, but the star of the night is a risotto-style oat dish with morel mushrooms, asparagus and a wine emulsion: “a delight!”. A “whatever” wine list is really Daraize’s only complaint here: four stars. [Le Journal de Montréal]

There’s no review from Lesley Chesterman this week, but instead she has a solid feature on some of Montreal’s progressive-minded sommeliers, like Moleskine’s Véronique Dalle.

• Le bonheur version Rosie [Le Devoir]
• Some People Don’t Seem to Understand How Montreal’s ‘No Tipping’ Restaurants Work [EMTL]
• Perles et paddock: chic ou convivial? [La Presse]
• Perles et Paddock Proclaimed a Jewel of Griffintown [EMTL]
• Le voilà dans la cour des grands [Le Journal de Montréal]
• The new breed of Montreal sommelier [Montreal Gazette]