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Critic Finds Reputable Cajun and Creole Dishes in the West Island

And the South Shore’s Madame Bovary gets its first write-up

Creole shrimp
Bistro Nolah

— At the Gazette, Lesley Chesterman is in the anglo heartland this week at Louisiana-inspired Bistro Nolah in Dollard. She laments the general absence of reliable West Island restaurants, and the strip-mall locations for those that do exist (Nolah included). But it’s “mission accomplished” — “meaty”, “tender” octopus is something Chesterman says to jump at; blackened catfish is “expertly cooked”, and braised short ribs come recommended for meat-lovers, avoiding the fatty pitfalls often encountered on such a cut. The hitches are minor: bok choy is an odd addition to a jambalaya, and a blackened strip loin is brought down by having its crust dampened with barbecue sauce. But on the whole, it seems a gem in the D.D.O. rough — two and a half stars. [Montreal Gazette]

— Journal critic Thierry Daraize is also out in the ‘burbs, at A5 Hospitality’s new “multiconcept” Madame Bovary, open since April. We also learn that Daraize is a fan of Aerosmith, The Beatles, and Jean Leloup, all on the Bovary playlist, of which he approves. Food-wise, the generous plates do well, but it’s not a knockout: a honey-soy tuna tartare with yuzu, ginger, wasabi sour cream, and sesame is perfectly seasoned and doesn’t let strong flavours dominate the tuna; grilled duck breast is perfectly-cooked, although there’s some weirdness with a sweet-as-all-get-out maple vinaigrette that appears not once, but twice, and Daraize eviscerates the sole dessert — doughnuts with chocolate sauce (and grease, it seems). Good service and decor brings it up to three and a half stars. [Le Journal de Montréal]

— Lastly, Le Devoir critic Jean-Philippe Tastet eschewed the regular feature review in place of a round-up of some of the city’s best terrasse-restaurant combinations. Some of the most notably ambient terrasses he highlights include the SAT’s Labo Culinaire, with its demi-rooftop above St-Laurent (his food tips include marinated trout with fiddleheads and caraway sour cream). Outremont’s Les Fillettes and its quiet, off-street patio gets a shout-out, too (try the végépâté, says Tastet); as does Maison Boulud for its garden-adjacent sheltered terrasse, with nettle ravioli filled with sheep’s ricotta. He also recommends all three of David McMillan’s Little Burgundy spots (Joe Beef, Liverpool House, Vin Papillon), albeit with the slightly unhelpful tip that everything is good. Every recommended resto earns four stars from Tastet. [Le Devoir]

Bistro Nolah

3669 Boulevard Saint-Jean, , QC H9G 1X2 (514) 696-9797 Visit Website

Madame Bovary

20 Boulevard de Mortagne, Boucherville, QC J4B 5K6 450-449-7225 Visit Website