Critic: Westmount Greek BYOB Petros Does “Ideal” Mediterranean

— At the Gazette, Lesley Chesterman discovers a Greek BYOB that’s a clear cut above some of the usual brochette-heavy Plateau spots. This one, Petros, is in Westmount and opened last fall. With a well-done set of classics, is an “ideal Mediterranean supper”. Calamari checks all the boxes (light, tender, crisp), as do most other apps, like a Greek salad and fried zucchini with tzatziki. The mains are spottier, though — lamb chops, while tasty, aren’t cooked right, but a pricy red snapper is the main offender, and downright short on flavour. But grilled shrimp are a redeeming factor, and Chesterman finds plenty to admire in Petros’ strengths, so it’s two and a half stars. [Montreal Gazette]

Madre sur Fleury

— Journal de Montréal critic Thierry Daraize is at chef Mario Navarrete Jr.’s Peruvian BYOB Madre (the Fleury location, although the original is in Rosemont). It’s a positive one — Daraize declares Navarrete an ambassador for the cuisine, with bonus props to the restaurant’s relaxing ambiance. An octopus ceviche with lime and amarillo peppers is applauded as an “explosion of flavour”, and a corn mousse with fried feta garners a positive comparison to a cloud. The meatier main plates fare just as well, particularly lomo saltado (sautéed beef), which is textured, perfectly grilled, and showcases Navarrete’s technique sublimely. Four stars. [Le Journal de Montréal]

— For the second time in just over a month, Louisiana-inspired Dollard restaurant Bistro Nolah has earned a warm review. This one comes from Ariane Krol at La Presse, who frames the West Island spot as somewhat of a diamond in the suburban rough. Juicy fried oysters are a promising start, and a sausage gumbo is “robust”, if better suited to winter dining. A shrimp jambalaya and perfectly-spiced catfish dish score more points, and while the dessert doughnuts are a little stiff and staid, Krol would go back. [La Presse]

Le Coureur des Bois

— Continuing her role as the city’s most bilingual critic, Lesley Chesterman is on reviewing duty at Le Devoir again this week. She heads out to Beloeil (near Mont-St-Hilaire) bistro Le Coureur des Bois and reaches a similar conclusion to that of Journal de Montréal critic Thierry Daraize eight months back: it’s worth the trip. While the restaurant’s decor lapses into suburban sensibilities a little (“between Dix 30 and a Laurentian chalet”), its 14,000 bottle wine cellar impresses, and the menu is wholly unpretentious. Chesterman’s coup de coeur is the duck confit, shiitake, foie gras, and mozzarella pizza (for the toppings more than the dough). A savoury goat cheese panna cotta and daring pineapple-celery brunoise dessert also get props; problems are limited to a couple of unbalanced dishes (read: smoked chocolate that comes too close to tasting of tobacco). Four stars. [Le Devoir]

• Restaurant review: Petros offers an affordable getaway to Greece [Montreal Gazette]
• Madre: c’est le Pérou [Le Journal de Montréal]
• Nolah: en allant vers La Nouvelle-Orléans [La Presse]
• Une belle échappée à Beloeil [Le Devoir]