Café Bazin Goes for Classics Over Trends, and One Critic Likes That

Café Bazin, the new coproduction between Antonio Park and pastry chef Bertrand Bazin, gets a visit from La Presse critic Marie-Claude Lortie (and her dad) — and she finds it both finessed and unpretentious. It’s all very classical (no fusion attempts here), and still a lunch-only affair. A foie gras Paris-Brest is “just perfect”, with a light mousse and “irreproachable” choux pastry; and while dishes like vol-au-vents may seem retro-’70s, a creamy chicken one excels for Lortie. The presence of a beef bourguignon also goes to show that Bazin and co are focused on quality over trendiness. Unsurprisingly, given Bazin’s expertise, desserts like a café-chocolate tart also fare exceedingly well, in one of Lortie’s best reviews of the year. [La Presse]

Tavern on the Square / Jon Cercone

Westmount favourite Tavern on the Square had a makeover earlier this year, and for Thierry Daraize at Le Journal de Montréal, it’s a “rebirth” — an albacore tartare is a rocky start (too lemony, possibly marinated too far in advance), but it picks up: an unctuous mushroom ravioli dish is “high-class Italian cuisine”, and pappardelle with braised veal prompt the reaction of “my God, another delight!”. Rich desserts like a lemon tart-cake seal the deal. Four stars. [Le Journal de Montréal]

Rosélys

At the Gazette, Lesley Chesterman visits the renovated Fairmont Queen Elizabeth hotel’s new restaurant Rosélys and is a bit more lukewarm on it than the first critic to visit a few weeks back. Just in terms of design, Rosélys causes Chesterman to gasp: “This is one whale of a restaurant.“ The wine list (with SAQ bottles heavily marked up) and spotty service don’t quite meet hit the same heights, but Chesterman notes that the food is a strength. A herby green bean salad with egg and pecans is perfectly seasonal, and oxtail-foie gras terrine is “rich and delicious”. On the mains, Arctic Char does well with a Provençal feel to it, if a little dominated by sun-dried tomatoes; but desserts disappointingly don’t make use of the late-summer harvest for the most part, leaning on chocolate and citrus. Two stars. [Montreal Gazette]

Landry et Filles

On the casual beat, JP Karwacki is at the restaurant side of snacky food truck Landry et Filles. It’s homey and has family vibes: stuffing fritters manage not to be overbearingly greasy, even if their accompanying ranch dressing could be more lemony; grilled eggplant with tomato confit is a solid mix of fatty, sweet, and acidic tones. Roasted chicken is a better bet than the hefty fried option, writes Karwacki, and dessert (a tout simple poached pear with dark chocolate sauce) is a highlight of this warm, although not raving review.

La Ferme

Lastly, Le Devoir critic Catherine Ferland is at riverside farm-to-table bistro La Ferme, halfway between Quebec City and Trois-Rivières. Highland beef (raised by La Ferme’s owners) figures prominently — a tataki (with chimichurri and kimchi) highlights the beef’s flavour, while a burger both looks and tastes great, rounded out with Fromagerie des Grondines cheese and caramelized onion. Three stars. [Le Devoir]

• Café Bazin: un nouveau français à Westmount [La Presse]
• Inside Café Bazin, Westmount’s Newest Viennoiserie and Bistro [EMTL]
• Une belle surprise [Le Journal de Montréal]
• Rosélys books a grand room at Queen Elizabeth Hotel [Montreal Gazette]
• Fairmont Queen Elizabeth’s New Restaurant Gets Critic’s Stamp of Approval [EMTL]
• Landry et filles strives for homestyle cooking and comfort [Cult MTL]
• L’effet boeuf à La Ferme [Le Devoir]