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At Le Virunga, chef Maria-José de Frias brings pan-African flavours to Quebec ingredients.
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Where to Eat in the Plateau

From downright iconic to under-the-radar, here are 22 essential places to dine well in the neighbourhood

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At Le Virunga, chef Maria-José de Frias brings pan-African flavours to Quebec ingredients.
| Le Virunga/Facebook

Montreal’s “bohemian” ilk may have ventured off to new frontiers, but the Plateau, with its highly walkable streets and colourful early-20th century facades, continues to impress — especially in the food department.

The neighbourhood offers some of the city’s most iconic restaurants (Schwartz’s, Au Pied de Cochon, Ma Poule Mouillée) and foods (poutine, Portuguese chicken, smoked meat), but there are other must-try options. The Plateau’s main strips — St-Laurent, Duluth, Mont-Royal, and St-Denis — feature the bulk of the restaurants, but it’s worth perusing side streets for lesser-sung neighbourhood gems. And while Mile End is officially part of the Plateau-Mont-Royal borough, the neighbourhood is covered on a different map.

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Le Filet

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With more than a decade to its name, this Mont-Royal Avenue destination is celebrated for chef Yasuhisa Okazaki’s elegant seafood-laden menu blending French and Japanese influences. From the team behind Le Club Chasse et Pêche and Le Serpent, Le Filet is similarly chic and also a fine pick for a special night out.

Barranco

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Named after a cool, colourful seaside neighbourhood in Lima, this St-Denis newcomer dishes causas (mashed potato terrines filled with ingredients like avocado, grilled octopus, shrimp, and more); pollo a la brasa, the nation’s famous crispy-skinned roast chicken; chicharrón (succulent fried pork) in taco and sandwich form; and a whole gamut of mahi-mahi ceviche. Its weekend brunch is also worth checking out.

Chez Doval

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Fittingly located steps away from Parc du Portugal on Marie-Anne Street, this rustic, no-fuss Portuguese spot has been a neighbourhood stalwart for nearly 50 years. The focus is on traditional, home-style cooking, with garlicky shrimp and salt cod fritters as starters and charcoal-grilled meats and fish — the sardines are delicious — for the main act. Add some house wine to wash it all down.

When it comes to flavour, this pint-sized, family-run Japanese lunch counter punches far above its weight. Noren’s short, affordable menu zooms in on takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes), but incorporates weekly bento boxes and specials into the mix, with veggie soba noodles and Hiyashi (chilled) udon recently making appearances. Seating inside is limited, but takeout is always an option.

Le Majestique

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A prime example of what happens when great dining intersects with a more casual bar setting. From happy hour oyster specials and beef tataki to an iconic 12-inch hot dog and some of the best French fries in town, everything Le Majestique does is superb. And it’s open daily until 3 a.m.

Café Chez Téta

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A Plateau newcomer and 2021 Eater Award winner, this café’s name honours its founder’s “téta” (“grandmother” in Lebanese.) A simple formula of Lebanese salads, dips, and piping hot manouché flatbreads with spiced meat, za’atar, cheese, and more has proven to do the trick, especially when followed by a hot cardamom or halva latte and a slice of sfouf (turmeric cake).

Le Réservoir

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Long looked to for its craft beer, Le Réservoir has seen more culinary traction since the owners of the now-closed (but not forgotten) Hôtel Herman came on board six years ago. Their efforts have yielded fantastic results — think haddock accras, chicken terrine, and sea bass ceviche — in a much more casual setting than their previous venture. And the beer is still exquisite.

Maison Publique

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A noted gastropub that favours flavours and ingredients from across Canada, chef Derek Dammann’s 10-year-old establishment on the corner of Marquette and Gilford has a deliciously heavyset menu filled with starches, carbs, and proteins. Expect dishes like baked oysters with marmite, carrots with whipped ricotta, foie gras parfait, or pasta with pork ragu, but note that the restaurant regularly updates its chalkboard menu.

Yokato Yokabai

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Sharing a space with sibling izakaya Ichigo Ichie, this Drolet Street ramen bar is a knockout. Kevin Fung, who also owns Imadake in Westmount, opened Yokato Yokabai in 2015 — and it seems to have been packed ever since. With all-organic ingredients, noodles made daily, and flavour-packed tonkotsu (pork), torikotsu (chicken), gomami (sesame), and vegan mushroom broths, how could it not be?

Chez Claudette

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Chez Claudette may not be the most popular poutine peddler in the neighbourhood (that title undoubtedly goes to La Banquise or Ma Poule Mouillée). Still, its take on the Québécois trifecta of fries, gravy, and cheese curds has a well-deserved reputation as among the city’s best. Though the 40-year-old casse-croûte was once a 24-hour haunt, note that it now closes at 10 p.m. daily.

Chez José Café

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Open for just over a quarter-century, this iconic Duluth Avenue café serves breakfasts and lunches that are worth the visit. Its Portuguese breakfast with fried eggs and chorizo, saucy sandwiches stuffed with omelette, and tomato-based seafood soup are go-tos, but its vegan options, sweets, and smoothies are great, too.

Schwartz's

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With an original smoked meat spice recipe and delicatessen that goes back to 1928, Reuban Schwartz’s legacy lives on in one of the most famous restaurants in the city. If endorsements from celebrities and long lines outside its doors aren’t convincing enough, a “fatty” with a side pickle will be. Superstar singer Céline Dion now proudly owns the restaurant.

La Panzeria

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There’s no scarcity of top-notch Italian eats on the island, but cuisine from the country’s Apulian region is hardly well-represented. Not so at La Panzeria, a daytime spot in a basement locale on St-Denis. Here, diners will find regional specialties like orecchiette (the signature ear-shaped pasta of Apulia), focaccia Barese (dimpled bread with cherry tomatoes), panzerotti (glorious pockets of melted cheese and tomato), and the panino Polignano (a sandwich filled with fried octopus and burrata).

Le Virunga

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Behind this six-year-old Rachel Street spot is a mother-daughter duo expertly wielding Quebec ingredients into pan-African flavours. Think tender, slow-cooked meats (oxtail, goat, etc.), nut-encrusted fish, and some seriously stunning cocktails. The restaurant’s wine list is also 100 percent South African.

This cozy BYOB has been filling the need for quality Korean food in the neighbourhood since its opening in 2018. Luna offers traditional dishes like bibimbap, bulgogi, and japchae on handmade Kwangjuyo pottery. Note: On Fridays and Saturdays, its tasting menu format is mandatory.

Icehouse

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In 2011, Texas-born Nick Hodge set out to carve out space for a tiny Tex-Mex restaurant in the Plateau, and the result was immediately satisfying. Fans of American fare would do well to try Ice House’s bucket of fried chicken (some of Montreal’s best), Dr. Pepper pork ribs, and oyster or shrimp po’ boy. Whatever you pick, be sure to accompany it with a Bourbon lemonade.

Ma Poule Mouillée

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For easy picnic provisions to carry over to nearby Parc Lafontaine, stop off at Portuguese rotisserie Ma Poule Mouillée. Its sandwich, which stuffs piri piri-slathered chicken into a powdery bun, and poutine, piled high with sliced bird, chorizo, and São Jorge cheese, are both excellent bets, with the latter offering sturdy competition to La Banquise across the street. Seating is available on-site, though expect ongoing bustle from the never-ending stream of customers passing through.

Khyber Pass

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If you’re looking for anything less than a feast, steer clear of this Duluth BYOB, which serves up hefty, flavourful platters of Afghan food. Despite an issue a few years back that resulted in the restaurant taking down its famous wooden facade, Khyber Pass remains as strong as ever — and its lamb dishes are just as good.

Au Pied de Cochon

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The Plateau has seen many newcomers in the last couple of decades, but no one could forget when chef Martin Picard first shone a light on Québécois cuisine in 2001. His Duluth Avenue establishment takes hearty dishes like poutine and pouding chômeur and inserts them into the fine dining arena. In the late winter to early spring, be sure to visit Au Pied de Cochon’s seasonal sugar shack in St-Benoît de Mirabel, and in the summer, picnics in the adjacent orchard promise to be fun and filling.

L'Express

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For a classic Parisian-style bistro, look no further than this Montreal institution. Operating since 1980, L’Express is one of the few restaurants deemed crème de la crème by local critics and beloved by locals and tourists alike. Whatever chef Jean-François Vachon is doing (hint: French classics), he’s doing it right.

Arepera

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Arepera stands out on Prince Arthur Street with a colourful dining room and some very satisfying Venezuelan fare. As its name suggests, arepas — corn cakes stuffed with shredded meats, grated cheese, and veggies — are the specialty. And thanks to the use of corn flour, the spot is a particular favourite among gluten-free diners.

Sushi Momo

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Chef Christian Manuel Ventura Alatorre opened Sushi Momo in 2014, serving creative vegan rolls sure to please even the most ardent sushi lovers. Following its runaway success, Alatorre launched Casa Kaizen, a meat-free Mexican-meets-Japanese fusion spot, and vegan torta restaurant Nopalito — both also in the Plateau.

Le Filet

With more than a decade to its name, this Mont-Royal Avenue destination is celebrated for chef Yasuhisa Okazaki’s elegant seafood-laden menu blending French and Japanese influences. From the team behind Le Club Chasse et Pêche and Le Serpent, Le Filet is similarly chic and also a fine pick for a special night out.

Barranco

Named after a cool, colourful seaside neighbourhood in Lima, this St-Denis newcomer dishes causas (mashed potato terrines filled with ingredients like avocado, grilled octopus, shrimp, and more); pollo a la brasa, the nation’s famous crispy-skinned roast chicken; chicharrón (succulent fried pork) in taco and sandwich form; and a whole gamut of mahi-mahi ceviche. Its weekend brunch is also worth checking out.

Chez Doval

Fittingly located steps away from Parc du Portugal on Marie-Anne Street, this rustic, no-fuss Portuguese spot has been a neighbourhood stalwart for nearly 50 years. The focus is on traditional, home-style cooking, with garlicky shrimp and salt cod fritters as starters and charcoal-grilled meats and fish — the sardines are delicious — for the main act. Add some house wine to wash it all down.

Noren

When it comes to flavour, this pint-sized, family-run Japanese lunch counter punches far above its weight. Noren’s short, affordable menu zooms in on takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes), but incorporates weekly bento boxes and specials into the mix, with veggie soba noodles and Hiyashi (chilled) udon recently making appearances. Seating inside is limited, but takeout is always an option.

Le Majestique

A prime example of what happens when great dining intersects with a more casual bar setting. From happy hour oyster specials and beef tataki to an iconic 12-inch hot dog and some of the best French fries in town, everything Le Majestique does is superb. And it’s open daily until 3 a.m.

Café Chez Téta

A Plateau newcomer and 2021 Eater Award winner, this café’s name honours its founder’s “téta” (“grandmother” in Lebanese.) A simple formula of Lebanese salads, dips, and piping hot manouché flatbreads with spiced meat, za’atar, cheese, and more has proven to do the trick, especially when followed by a hot cardamom or halva latte and a slice of sfouf (turmeric cake).

Le Réservoir

Long looked to for its craft beer, Le Réservoir has seen more culinary traction since the owners of the now-closed (but not forgotten) Hôtel Herman came on board six years ago. Their efforts have yielded fantastic results — think haddock accras, chicken terrine, and sea bass ceviche — in a much more casual setting than their previous venture. And the beer is still exquisite.

Maison Publique

A noted gastropub that favours flavours and ingredients from across Canada, chef Derek Dammann’s 10-year-old establishment on the corner of Marquette and Gilford has a deliciously heavyset menu filled with starches, carbs, and proteins. Expect dishes like baked oysters with marmite, carrots with whipped ricotta, foie gras parfait, or pasta with pork ragu, but note that the restaurant regularly updates its chalkboard menu.

Yokato Yokabai

Sharing a space with sibling izakaya Ichigo Ichie, this Drolet Street ramen bar is a knockout. Kevin Fung, who also owns Imadake in Westmount, opened Yokato Yokabai in 2015 — and it seems to have been packed ever since. With all-organic ingredients, noodles made daily, and flavour-packed tonkotsu (pork), torikotsu (chicken), gomami (sesame), and vegan mushroom broths, how could it not be?

Chez Claudette

Chez Claudette may not be the most popular poutine peddler in the neighbourhood (that title undoubtedly goes to La Banquise or Ma Poule Mouillée). Still, its take on the Québécois trifecta of fries, gravy, and cheese curds has a well-deserved reputation as among the city’s best. Though the 40-year-old casse-croûte was once a 24-hour haunt, note that it now closes at 10 p.m. daily.

Chez José Café

Open for just over a quarter-century, this iconic Duluth Avenue café serves breakfasts and lunches that are worth the visit. Its Portuguese breakfast with fried eggs and chorizo, saucy sandwiches stuffed with omelette, and tomato-based seafood soup are go-tos, but its vegan options, sweets, and smoothies are great, too.

Schwartz's

With an original smoked meat spice recipe and delicatessen that goes back to 1928, Reuban Schwartz’s legacy lives on in one of the most famous restaurants in the city. If endorsements from celebrities and long lines outside its doors aren’t convincing enough, a “fatty” with a side pickle will be. Superstar singer Céline Dion now proudly owns the restaurant.

La Panzeria

There’s no scarcity of top-notch Italian eats on the island, but cuisine from the country’s Apulian region is hardly well-represented. Not so at La Panzeria, a daytime spot in a basement locale on St-Denis. Here, diners will find regional specialties like orecchiette (the signature ear-shaped pasta of Apulia), focaccia Barese (dimpled bread with cherry tomatoes), panzerotti (glorious pockets of melted cheese and tomato), and the panino Polignano (a sandwich filled with fried octopus and burrata).

Le Virunga

Behind this six-year-old Rachel Street spot is a mother-daughter duo expertly wielding Quebec ingredients into pan-African flavours. Think tender, slow-cooked meats (oxtail, goat, etc.), nut-encrusted fish, and some seriously stunning cocktails. The restaurant’s wine list is also 100 percent South African.

Luna

This cozy BYOB has been filling the need for quality Korean food in the neighbourhood since its opening in 2018. Luna offers traditional dishes like bibimbap, bulgogi, and japchae on handmade Kwangjuyo pottery. Note: On Fridays and Saturdays, its tasting menu format is mandatory.

Icehouse

In 2011, Texas-born Nick Hodge set out to carve out space for a tiny Tex-Mex restaurant in the Plateau, and the result was immediately satisfying. Fans of American fare would do well to try Ice House’s bucket of fried chicken (some of Montreal’s best), Dr. Pepper pork ribs, and oyster or shrimp po’ boy. Whatever you pick, be sure to accompany it with a Bourbon lemonade.

Ma Poule Mouillée

For easy picnic provisions to carry over to nearby Parc Lafontaine, stop off at Portuguese rotisserie Ma Poule Mouillée. Its sandwich, which stuffs piri piri-slathered chicken into a powdery bun, and poutine, piled high with sliced bird, chorizo, and São Jorge cheese, are both excellent bets, with the latter offering sturdy competition to La Banquise across the street. Seating is available on-site, though expect ongoing bustle from the never-ending stream of customers passing through.

Khyber Pass

If you’re looking for anything less than a feast, steer clear of this Duluth BYOB, which serves up hefty, flavourful platters of Afghan food. Despite an issue a few years back that resulted in the restaurant taking down its famous wooden facade, Khyber Pass remains as strong as ever — and its lamb dishes are just as good.

Au Pied de Cochon

The Plateau has seen many newcomers in the last couple of decades, but no one could forget when chef Martin Picard first shone a light on Québécois cuisine in 2001. His Duluth Avenue establishment takes hearty dishes like poutine and pouding chômeur and inserts them into the fine dining arena. In the late winter to early spring, be sure to visit Au Pied de Cochon’s seasonal sugar shack in St-Benoît de Mirabel, and in the summer, picnics in the adjacent orchard promise to be fun and filling.

L'Express

For a classic Parisian-style bistro, look no further than this Montreal institution. Operating since 1980, L’Express is one of the few restaurants deemed crème de la crème by local critics and beloved by locals and tourists alike. Whatever chef Jean-François Vachon is doing (hint: French classics), he’s doing it right.

Arepera

Arepera stands out on Prince Arthur Street with a colourful dining room and some very satisfying Venezuelan fare. As its name suggests, arepas — corn cakes stuffed with shredded meats, grated cheese, and veggies — are the specialty. And thanks to the use of corn flour, the spot is a particular favourite among gluten-free diners.

Sushi Momo

Chef Christian Manuel Ventura Alatorre opened Sushi Momo in 2014, serving creative vegan rolls sure to please even the most ardent sushi lovers. Following its runaway success, Alatorre launched Casa Kaizen, a meat-free Mexican-meets-Japanese fusion spot, and vegan torta restaurant Nopalito — both also in the Plateau.