Among the city’s older poutine purveyors, Ahuntsic’s Chez Ma Tante is as reliable as they come (read: they do not skimp on the curds). Eat yours — with the requisite order of two steamés (that’s a steamed hot dog, for our non-locals)— on the picnic tables outside, or take them to go after ordering at the drive-through.

Hochelaga’s casse-croûte of choice has a poutine worthy of the trek out east. Like La Pataterie itself, its take is decidedly fuss-free — just as many would argue this dish should be.

International twists on the Quebec diner dish are aplenty in the city — and one of the most beloved sees griot (pork cubes that have been braised and then fried) mixed in. This Haitian haunt in Villeray does it exceptionally well.

This quirky daytime spot in the Plateau has been dishing up its poutines (as well as a full menu of breakfast and lunch) since 1972. Everything is made in-house, so expect crispy fries, warm gravy, and squeaky cheese on the classic, plus add-ons like meats and veggies for the more creative options.

Up north in Cartierville lies Paulo & Suzanne — and while Paulo never existed and Suzanne has moved on, the diner still dishes up all-day breakfast and a much-loved poutine, morning to night.

Locals like to knock the city’s best-known poutinerie for its long lines and tourist appeal, but it’s still a great bet — especially for those partial to poutine gussied up with a variety of unconventional toppings. Plus, it’s open 24/7.

Officially, it’s a Portuguese rotisserie chicken haunt, but since opening in 2013, Ma Poule Mouillée has developed a devoted following for its poutine laden with chicken, chouriço, São Jorge cheese, and a special sauce. Be warned: Even the “small” portion is quite large, and the line-ups frequently rival those at La Banquise across the street.

Martin Picard’s twist on the poutine involves a hunk of foie gras on top. It has, over time, become a pilgrimage-worthy dish — and is often credited with expanding poutine’s culinary reputation beyond that of local diner fare.

A member of Montreal’s old guard of casse-croûtes, Décarie Hot Dog has been open for more than half a century in Ville Saint-Laurent. Head here for your fill of steamés, burgers, and gravy-drenched poutine taken to go.

More than a century old, Montreal Pool Room hasn’t had pool tables for many years, but it still serves a great poutine in the Red Light District (even if it moved across the street back in 2010). Try a steamé while you’re at it.

You can debate the culinary merit of Orange Julep’s poutine, but there’s no zanier or more iconic place to get your grease on in Montreal.

Even purists should make an exception to try Italian poutine, which smothers cheese curds and fries in a bolognese-like meat sauce. This late-night favourite does the dish justice.

Once rough-and-tumble, Pointe-St-Charles is certainly changing, but the neighbourhood still has Paul Patates, a casse-croûte dishing homemade spruce beer, steamés, and an archetypal poutine.

Pierrette Patates serves a style of poutine undiluted by food trends: Expect the classic blue-collar Québécois food in a part of Verdun not yet overrun by gentrification.